The right choice (Need help)

[FreakysFords]

if a 6.0 needs head gaskets than lifting the cab is a must because the headbolts will not come out without lifting the cab.

Actually, I only ever lifted one cab for engine work and never will another (on the 6.0 that is). I STILL find it odd that people don't realize that you just lift the back two head bolts, put a rubber band on them to hold them up and remove the head.

On the earlier 6.0s, a head swap was an 8hr job. On some of the later ones an hour or so less.

Another is that the engine can't be pulled.................... Proved that one wrong to FoMoCo engineers and it's now acceptable to remove the engine without removing the body, as well as the same for the heads.

Sadly, the removal of the heads without removing the body has been added to the service catalogs and people still don't read it.

[averagef250]

My recommendations would be:
-a 99+ 7.3 powerstroke with some bucks in the auto tranny or a 6 speed.
-a 94 to 98.5 dodge Cummins with an auto

The dodge 47RH/47RE autos are way better than the Ford E4OD or 4R100. The dodge bodies suck, they fall apart pretty bad when you get 200K + on them. The dodges have poor brakes until the later years 2000+.

The perfect truck to tow a heavy trailer would be a 94 or 95 2wd Cummins dodge with an auto. These trucks are entirely mechanical, there is a computer, but it doesn't do much at all. They are incredibly simple to work on and will make 300 HP right out of the box (that's nearly 700 lb/ft @ 1600 RPM). These engines are not indestructible, but they have truely amazed me at what they can do for thier size and how efficiently they actually do it. If you buy one of these trucks I would recommend the following upgrades:
- 16CM non-wastegated exhaust housing ($150)
-330HP marine injector nozzles ($180)
-#10 fuel plate (grind your own- free)
- ARP headstuds to 150 lb/ft and cometic gasket ($550)
- 4" mandrel exhaust ($150)
-Pyro, boost and fuel pressure gauges ($500)
- Single disc billet torque converter ($300)
- Goerand valve body modified for lockup in all gears ($700)
- 48RE overdrive section with aftermarket clutches and steels ($200)

With those parts on that truck you will be able to run a 14 flat in the 1/4 mile, tow 20K up a 6% grade in OD at 65 MPH and get great 17-23 MPG fuel mileage. The auto should last atleast 75K under heavy abuse, maybe 150K+ if taken care of with that power. You won't ever hurt the motor with those parts and 10K oil change intervals.

[peanutman]

Thanks for the info guys. Does anyone have any info on the duramax. Heard good things about them so far, maybe too new for the dirt on the gm's.

[peanutman]

perhaps i should consider a gas powered rig instead

[hazelnut]

if a 6.0 needs head gaskets than lifting the cab is a must because the headbolts will not come out without lifting the cab.

Actually, I only ever lifted one cab for engine work and never will another (on the 6.0 that is). I STILL find it odd that people don't realize that you just lift the back two head bolts, put a rubber band on them to hold them up and remove the head.

On the earlier 6.0s, a head swap was an 8hr job. On some of the later ones an hour or so less.

Another is that the engine can't be pulled.................... Proved that one wrong to FoMoCo engineers and it's now acceptable to remove the engine without removing the body, as well as the same for the heads.

Sadly, the removal of the heads without removing the body has been added to the service catalogs and people still don't read it.

After changing injectors on a 6.0 there is no way that i would even think about changeing headgaskets and installing studs without lifting the body, for the simple fact of its easyer, simpler and faster. and to say its a 8 hour job to change the heads. would have to see it first because i dont think that anybody alive has changed them that fast. its a two day job and thats if you rolling and dont have any problems.

[KF100TK]

I 've got an 03 6.0 since new with 230 000 km still runs like new and 05 F-550 6.0 i bought with 265 000 km now with 300 000 but now
has some major issues yet to be determined (injectors or bad cylinder?) My neighbor is fleet manager with these trucks and the main issues are EGR
then injectors after 250 000 km but never a bad block.