think i may have found my problem

[sargentrs]

You can get a cheap voltmeter at any auto parts store or some variety stores for about $10.

Multimeter.JPG

Go ahead and invest in one, you're going to need it. Also get a 12v test light with the sharp point on it. That comes in handy when you need to probe through wiring insulation just to see if something is hot.

TestLight.JPG

these are some pics of the ignition set up brown and red/black are ignition and star wires i believe.

Here's the 1970 wiring diagram and wire color charts. Focus in the top left area of wiring diagram, that's your whole starting, ignition and charging circuits. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... master.jpg and http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... -chart.gif When in doubt, get the wire number, go to the color chart, and check it against the wire in question. Pay attention to basic color and wire gauge. Sometimes the stripe colors change from year to model, etc so be sure and trace it back to the nearest connector. For example,

ElectricalExample.JPG

the brown wire goes to the "I" terminal (#262, 16ga brown) and the red/? wire (#32, 18ga red w/ blue) goes to the "S" terminal. Officially that should be red w/ blue stripe but sometimes differs during actual manufacturing at the factory. Put a terminal on that brown wire before you install it. Both of those lead to a 4 pin connector along with #12 and #13 from the driver's side headlight. Using this philosophy you can trace any circuit on the truck.

[Aurelio Landeros]

You can get a cheap voltmeter at any auto parts store or some variety stores for about $10. Go ahead and invest in one, you're going to need it. Also get a 12v test light with the sharp point on it. That comes in handy when you need to probe through wiring insulation just to see if something is hot.

TestLight.JPG

these are some pics of the ignition set up brown and red/black are ignition and star wires i believe.

Here's the 1970 wiring diagram and wire color charts. Focus in the top left area of wiring diagram, that's your whole starting, ignition and charging circuits. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... master.jpg and http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... -chart.gif When in doubt, get the wire number, go to the color chart, and check it against the wire in question. Pay attention to basic color and wire gauge. Sometimes the stripe colors change from year to model, etc so be sure and trace it back to the nearest connector. For example,

ElectricalExample.JPG

the brown wire goes to the "I" terminal (#262, 16ga brown) and the red/? wire (#32, 18ga red w/ blue) goes to the "S" terminal. Officially that should be red w/ blue stripe but sometimes differs during actual manufacturing at the factory. Put a terminal on that brown wire before you install it. Both of those lead to a 4 pin connector along with #12 and #13 from the driver's side headlight. Using this philosophy you can trace any circuit on the truck.

i do have a 12 volt test light and thanks for the links ill see what i can do today and get back on here and let you know just to be sure the wire that runs to the coil should come off the fenddr right

[sargentrs]

Not sure what you mean by "come off the fender". Btw, buy a new coil. You will need the multimeter to check your coil voltage and resistor wire.

[Aurelio Landeros]

Not sure what you mean by "come off the fender". Btw, buy a new coil. You will need the multimeter to check your coil voltage and resistor wire.

i did that today bought a new coil it still got very hot check the wiring links you gave me and i believe i have the coil hoked to the wrong write i have mine hooked to a orange wire when the chart states it is supposed to be red or pink

[sargentrs]

The wire to the + terminal on the coil should be red with a green stripe according to the color chart. It should read about 9 volts with the key on, 12v when cranking. The coil hot wire (16, red/green), temperature sending unit (39, red/white) and oil pressure sending unit (31, white/red) all go into a 3 prong connector that's probably coming off of the firewall. Locate the others and trace them back to that connector then locate the coil wire and trace it out to the coil. Looking at the wiring diagram, you'll see that the other side of that connector has the wire from the "I" terminal on the solenoid (262) and the pink resistor wire (16 with the squiggly line) matching up to coil + wire. The - terminal on the coil is a black wire coming from the distributor. When you turn the ignition key on, the resistor wire reduces the voltage to the coil + down to 9v on wire 16. When you turn the switch to start, wire 32 on the "S" terminal of the solenoid energizes the "I" terminal sending power along wire 262 from the starter relay and overrides wire 16 sending a 12v charge to the coil for starting. When you release the key and it goes back to run, power is cut from 262 (via wire 32) and wire 16 takes over maintaining a 9v circuit to the coil. The distributors job, via the points, is to provide the ground side of the circuit to the - terminal of the coil. As the points open and close they trigger the coil to fire through the coil wire into the distributor cap in time with the rotation of the rotor to the various spark plug wires. Hence the term "ignition timing". When you turn the key off, power is cut off to the resistor wire. The coil is not designed to handle 12v full time so it gets too hot and will shut down and the points are not designed to handle it either and will burn the contacts. That's why the voltage is reduced to 9v. Really a very simple circuit, just finding the right wires and hooking them up to the right terminals.

[Aurelio Landeros]

The wire to the + terminal on the coil should be red with a green stripe according to the color chart. It should read about 9 volts with the key on, 12v when cranking. The coil hot wire (16, red/green), temperature sending unit (39, red/white) and oil pressure sending unit (31, white/red) all go into a 3 prong connector that's probably coming off of the firewall. Locate the others and trace them back to that connector then locate the coil wire and trace it out to the coil. Looking at the wiring diagram, you'll see that the other side of that connector has the wire from the "I" terminal on the solenoid (262) and the pink resistor wire (16 with the squiggly line) matching up to coil + wire. The - terminal on the coil is a black wire coming from the distributor. When you turn the ignition key on, the resistor wire reduces the voltage to the coil + down to 9v on wire 16. When you turn the switch to start, wire 32 on the "S" terminal of the solenoid energizes the "I" terminal sending power along wire 262 from the starter relay and overrides wire 16 sending a 12v charge to the coil for starting. When you release the key and it goes back to run, power is cut from 262 (via wire 32) and wire 16 takes over maintaining a 9v circuit to the coil. The distributors job, via the points, is to provide the ground side of the circuit to the - terminal of the coil. As the points open and close they trigger the coil to fire through the coil wire into the distributor cap in time with the rotation of the rotor to the various spark plug wires. Hence the term "ignition timing". When you turn the key off, power is cut off to the resistor wire. The coil is not designed to handle 12v full time so it gets too hot and will shut down and the points are not designed to handle it either and will burn the contacts. That's why the voltage is reduced to 9v. Really a very simple circuit, just finding the right wires and hooking them up to the right terminals.

sweet going to try and line it all up today and see what happens

[USAROVER]

This is a fantastic explanation! I'm chasing down "something" and keep getting ahead of myself. This explanation is going to help me a bunch, thank you!

The wire to the + terminal on the coil should be red with a green stripe according to the color chart. It should read about 9 volts with the key on, 12v when cranking. The coil hot wire (16, red/green), temperature sending unit (39, red/white) and oil pressure sending unit (31, white/red) all go into a 3 prong connector that's probably coming off of the firewall. Locate the others and trace them back to that connector then locate the coil wire and trace it out to the coil. Looking at the wiring diagram, you'll see that the other side of that connector has the wire from the "I" terminal on the solenoid (262) and the pink resistor wire (16 with the squiggly line) matching up to coil + wire. The - terminal on the coil is a black wire coming from the distributor. When you turn the ignition key on, the resistor wire reduces the voltage to the coil + down to 9v on wire 16. When you turn the switch to start, wire 32 on the "S" terminal of the solenoid energizes the "I" terminal sending power along wire 262 from the starter relay and overrides wire 16 sending a 12v charge to the coil for starting. When you release the key and it goes back to run, power is cut from 262 (via wire 32) and wire 16 takes over maintaining a 9v circuit to the coil. The distributors job, via the points, is to provide the ground side of the circuit to the - terminal of the coil. As the points open and close they trigger the coil to fire through the coil wire into the distributor cap in time with the rotation of the rotor to the various spark plug wires. Hence the term "ignition timing". When you turn the key off, power is cut off to the resistor wire. The coil is not designed to handle 12v full time so it gets too hot and will shut down and the points are not designed to handle it either and will burn the contacts. That's why the voltage is reduced to 9v. Really a very simple circuit, just finding the right wires and hooking them up to the right terminals.

[sargentrs]

Hope it does you some good. Never did find out if Aurelio got his running right. Aurelio?

[Aurelio Landeros]

Oh se runs beautiful but clutch fork keeps falling out

[sargentrs]

Glad to here she running now.

[Aurelio Landeros]

Glad to here she running now.

My grandfather gavebit to me before the passed and my father took it all apart left everything in boxes and on a trailer build it up from rolling chassis to a complete truck now

[sargentrs]

Quite an accomplishment. Having been reassembling mine for almost 5 years now I know what a job that is. Great work!

[Aurelio Landeros]

Quite an accomplishment. Having been reassembling mine for almost 5 years now I know what a job that is. Great work!

Ill throw some pictures when I get home spent the night at the shop trying to get clutch fork through the tiny hole in the bell housing and onto the bearing seriously don't wanna pull the transmission