The "Krusty Kab"

[IN2FORD]

Well I dove head first into the wiring. I bought a complete kit from Centech and it appears to be very complete. I chose it because it offers all of the ford oem plugs and from what I can find, Centech is the only place that has that. Anyways I made just a flat aluminum plate to mount the fuse panel on. I mounted it high behind the instrument cluster. Started wiring some today and got to a stopping point needing a relay for the fuel pump and trying to find the connectors for the door jam switches. Mine are pretty brittle and thought I would try to find new ones. Not sure they are available.






Also got in my Ford Racing Shorty headers.



And put a coat of stainless paint on the Tremec TKO trans getting it ready to go in.



Barry

[IN2FORD]

I finally got the rear cross member mounted in behind the tank. I mounted it reverse from what others have done. This way I have access to the nuts for the bed bolts and also a place to have the wiring for the tail lights. Plan on using a weather pack connector there.

Picture pre-bed install...




and then with the bed.



Now back on the wiring.

Barry

[IN2FORD]

295/40/20 Not sure its going to fit. Very tight to the inner and outer fender



Barry

[zmonster72]

love that clear rim! that thing is sweet! Truck is looking awesome

[IN2FORD]

love that clear rim! that thing is sweet! Truck is looking awesome

It was tough finding the lug nut holes when I mounted those clear rims. Took forever!

Barry

[IN2FORD]

I have gained a bunch on wiring. It is all done in the rear. Now I need to order gauges and work my way through those and the engine. I did get the vent for the tank installed behind the passenger tail light.



The other thing I have been working on is the fuel neck. I have a Tanks Inc tank and their mustang tank comes with a standard fuel neck to connect a rubber hose to it. no way to screw in a fuel cap. Tanks Inc wants $60 for one. So instead I went to the local pull a part and picked up a Ranger fuel neck.



Then with a hack saw I cut the top portion off that has the threads for the fuel cap.



And the o.d. of the portion that I cut off is just slightly under the i.d. of the fuel neck that came with the tank so it dropped right in.



Then I used the clamp portion of my old Black and Decker work bench and clamped them tight. Couple of 1/2" welds on each side and done. Worked out great and saved $55!!











Barry

[IN2FORD]

Had to take a break from wiring, so I installed my new valve covers and the plug wire separators. And with some help from some friends we set the core support and inner fenders on so I can figure out what to trim so they will fit around the front suspension.





Barry

[jimmy828]

Just got to say ,that truck is going to be sweet !!

[nathankershaw]

Love the build.
Awesome truck and standard of work.

I couldn't see it reading through but what parts do you have in you steering shaft?
There seems to still be a rag joint of sorts in there?

I've connected mine up but am still looking around to se what solutions people came up with.

[SeapineF37]

yeah barry looking great man! going to put a hydraboost on my list so i can fit the valve covers i want when i build up my motor. thanks for the write-up on that. keep up the great work and thanks for sharing all the details.

[IN2FORD]

Love the build.
Awesome truck and standard of work.

I couldn't see it reading through but what parts do you have in you steering shaft?
There seems to still be a rag joint of sorts in there?

I've connected mine up but am still looking around to se what solutions people came up with.

Sorry for the slow response. Been traveling. The rag joint is still there. Not my choice too The previous owner that started this project modified the column to use an expedition shaft. It works fine just don't like the way it looks.

Thanks for the props!

Barry

[IN2FORD]

Finally getting back to the truck. I picked up a set of wheels from rocket Racing. I bought 18x9 5.25 backspacing for the front and 20x10 5.5 backspacing for the back. I had planned on running custom offset wheels and no spacers but I got a good deal on these and could not pass them up so I will need to run a 1.5 to 2" spacer on the rear. Front should be perfect. I got one of my rear tires mounted just to make sure things work and it is a 295/40/20. I love it! With a 2" spacer it is a little tight to the outside lip. I will either need to trim the edge or run a 1.75 or 1.5 spacer.









I got my gauges in as well and fabbed up the panel insert. Next step is to sand blast and powder coat satin black and wire them up. I bought Marshall gauges for a couple of reasons. I wanted the Dakota Digital but since I am doing the ole hot rod look and these are reasonably priced, it made sense. Really like the way they look.



Next thing is to fill holes on my inner fenders. I had not planned on that but I decided it needs to be done.

Barry

[IN2FORD]

Got the gauge panel welded up and sand blasted a little. time for some powder coat. Also finished welding both inner fenders up so no more holes. Just need to grind the welds down and paint.



barry

[SeapineF37]

wow dude! those wheels are rad. and really liking the gauge setup. working on something similar myself but the gauges are so much coin. let us know how you like the marshalls. looking good as always!

[IN2FORD]

wow dude! those wheels are rad. and really liking the gauge setup. working on something similar myself but the gauges are so much coin. let us know how you like the marshalls. looking good as always!

Yep putting a wheel on there just gets you re-juiced to get it done! The price of gauges is exactly why I bought the Marshalls. Half the price of Autometer, made in the USA and nothing but good info on them. I got them off of Ebay for $324. Autometer was twice that. I did look at Speedhut during the black friday sale and they would have been around $450 but just didn't make sense to spend the extra money.

Barry