i rebuilt my heater box today. i know the cables that stay inside the cab go as follows. driver side to driver side of the heater box. passenger side cable to passenger side of the heater box. the switch that controls these cables does not move freely. they are brand new cables. i really have to force it. i think it's crazy that the passenger cable is as long as it is. i'm tempted to use my original driver side cable because it's much shorter and swap with the brand new passenger side cable.
does anyone know if these cables are supposed to be routed a certain way? maybe that's why the switch is tough to move. the right cable doesn't look right the way i have it mounted to the box. not sure what to do here. again i think i'm going to use my original driver side cable because it's much shorter and easier to bend.
also i think there are supposed to be 2 little nuts that slide onto the flap bars on the heater box to keep the cables in place. where do i find these? i lost one. they look similiar to the ones on my heater control unit
has anyone encountered a similar problem after hooking up their heater?
if you have a picture or a suggestion that you think may help me i would appreciate it.
heater control questions
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Re: heater control questions
Im rustu at alot about these trucks. But the heater hose valves are known to get dirty and stick.
To confirm what is sticking disconnect the cable. Move what its hooked to by hand. Operate the cable while its also unhooked from where it hooks up. As far as those clips. Where ever they are at. Someone should have some extras. Mine are buried some place. Idk where at.
Cable routings are warm and cool go to heater hose valve. The defrost floor cable goes to the box.
To confirm what is sticking disconnect the cable. Move what its hooked to by hand. Operate the cable while its also unhooked from where it hooks up. As far as those clips. Where ever they are at. Someone should have some extras. Mine are buried some place. Idk where at.
Cable routings are warm and cool go to heater hose valve. The defrost floor cable goes to the box.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: heater control questions
i just hosed down the heater control with balistol. moves a little better. i don't like the angle that the right cable on the box mounts. that angle is pure stupid. i'm changing it. going to lube up the brand new cables too. also swapping passenger side cable with original driver side cable so i will have two short cables controlling my box. i tested it and the heater control likes the short one better on the box. going to figure out what push nuts at the hardware store can be used to replace these little oval ones. i'll tell yall what type and size nuts can be used as replacements. i just launched the last one i had this morning across the drive way while testing the short cable. lost in translation. i need a time machine so i can go slap ford in the face on new years 1972. i'll report my results. these mods together should work.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: heater control questions
autozone heater core just blew out while i was playing around with the heater. that didn't take long. just picked up a vista-pro model no 0399024 from southern distributors and tossed the autozone junk. why am i not surprised. antifreeze all over my freshly painted box. doh!
new heater core weighs more, has thicker walls and thicker metal beef just about everywhere. off work tomorrow so hopefully i can wrap up this mini project
new heater core weighs more, has thicker walls and thicker metal beef just about everywhere. off work tomorrow so hopefully i can wrap up this mini project
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Re: heater control questions
I saw those cable clamps on ebay. They were listed for mustang. At 3.95 each maybe the same for shipping. They should work.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: heater control questions
i got heat now. it's not functioning correctly but i have heat and defrost and it gets real hot!fordman wrote:I saw those cable clamps on ebay. They were listed for mustang. At 3.95 each maybe the same for shipping. They should work.
these must be the ones you are talking about. this is not what i need. i need the nuts that slide onto the 3/16 size flapper arms that keep the cables attached to the flappers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Heater- ... d8&vxp=mtr
today i bought some axle pushnuts for 3/16s. they didn't work. i also bought some nylon dowls. i drilled holes through the dowels with a 3/16s bit. they fit snugly onto the flapper rods and function the same way. it's ghetto rigged but works to keep the cables on the rods.
i installed the new heater core. installed the box. installed new vent hoses. i have both cables hooked up but could not get the passenger flapper to function. no matter what i do i can't get it to work.
does anyone have a picture of the cables connected to their heater box? it doesn't seem right to bend the right cable at such a severe angle between the clamp mount on the box and the flapper rod. i tried swapping the long cable with a short cable and installed it in a way so that it wasn't bent at a angle and just went in a straight line to the flapper rod and it still didn't work.
when i have the defrost switch all the way to the left heat blows out of the left dash vent. when it's all the way to the right it blows out of both dash vents. and no matter what it blows out the bottom of the box.
maybe my flapper is damaged and bent...
i cut my hands up pretty good white wrestling this project and got them covered in chalk dust to stop the bleeding. i seriously think rebuilding the top end of a engine is easier than this thing
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: heater control questions
i just pulled another heater box out of another ford at the junkyard to compare notes. strange that it did not even have nuts on the flapper arms to keep the cables in place even though my truck did. doesn't look like you really need them though. my flappers are all backwards the way i installed them in my personal truck. i need to reorient these babies. out comes the heater box again. but first i'm finishing the dash install on the f250...
- Ranchero50
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Re: heater control questions
Well, take some pics because my lower bare don't move so well either.
I'd almost rather have lever hanging out the front like the base models did.
I'd almost rather have lever hanging out the front like the base models did.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.