Fire wall pad
Moderator: FORDification
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Fire wall pad
What is a good source to buy the pad from?
Is it even worth to buy one or just go with extra layers of sound mat.
Is it even worth to buy one or just go with extra layers of sound mat.
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- New Member
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Re: Fire wall pad
I really like the sound mat. Any extra noise cancellation is definitely a bonus.
- jzjames
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- Location: Washington, Windy Point
Re: Fire wall pad
I wanted the new firewall cover in my cab so I paid the $215. @ Dennis Carpenter.
Was very happy with the quality, it’s made out of that hard plastic - whatcha-call-it - with batting material on the front side.
Was very happy with the quality, it’s made out of that hard plastic - whatcha-call-it - with batting material on the front side.
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Re: Fire wall pad
Forget about the cheap ebay ones. The pad from Dennis Carpenter is worth the extra cost.
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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Re: Fire wall pad
I bought a cheaper pad and haven't been happy with the look or fit - gonna replace it with the DC part - spend the extra and save yourself the headache.......
"Life is a garden - dig it"...........
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
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Re: Fire wall pad
Hi,
For the folks that have installed a new pad....Can you please explain the install process?
Do you have to pull the steering shaft, brake rod, clutch rod, heater box.... Etc.....???
Thanks,
Lee
For the folks that have installed a new pad....Can you please explain the install process?
Do you have to pull the steering shaft, brake rod, clutch rod, heater box.... Etc.....???
Thanks,
Lee
- jzjames
- 100% FORDified!
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Re: Fire wall pad
If you don’t pull the steering column, you’ll have to cut up to the hole in the firewall pad that the column goes through.
This was not a big deal for me, and I backed up the cut area with some ABS material glued on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Glued on the back side, the cut is small and barely visible.
When doing this stuff, a little modification is usually needed. Neatness counts.
This was not a big deal for me, and I backed up the cut area with some ABS material glued on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Glued on the back side, the cut is small and barely visible.
When doing this stuff, a little modification is usually needed. Neatness counts.
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- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 561
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- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Fire wall pad
There is some good info in this thread: Any firewall pad replacing tips? started on Dec 28 2012 on this forum, in the interior section, and if you go to youtube there is a video called F100 Bumpside '67-72 firewall pad tips and tricks Autorestomod episode 376. that has some good pointers. I have not done mine yet, but I plan on replacing it in the future.
Good luck
Good luck
1972 F250 Sports Custom 390 FE C6 2WD Dana 60 4:10 gears
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Re: Fire wall pad
Has anyone carpeted the firewall?
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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- Location: Nampa Idaho
Re: Fire wall pad
I'll be honest, they're a real bitch! For one, none that I have installed fit exactly like they are supposed to. There is always a lot of trimming to do around the brake/clutch brackets and the wiper motor mounting bracket. Also the holes in them have never lined up with the originals. Make it as easy as possible by completely removing the steering column.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
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- New Member
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Re: Fire wall pad
Did the ranger package come with carpet on the firewall?
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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- Location: Nampa Idaho
Re: Fire wall pad
Yes.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
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- New Member
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- Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2015 12:42 pm
Re: Fire wall pad
I pulled out the column and the heater/blower/heater core, and removed seat.... Was opportunity to clean up floor.... It gets pretty tight working space so getting stuff out of it the way helps
I put in new carpet but it does not go all the way up wall, honestly I think that could be PITA. ( I added sound deadener to floor too)
There were a lot of old holes where previous things had run (like manual choke) and so with everything out was easier to see and seal up the firewall around grommets etc..... If you have any wiring to do now is the time.
It was 3 yrs ago and I think I purchased mine off Fleabay.... But I would trust comments here that if DC is better than spend the money..... I do recall this whole process was a little tedious and I I know that I don't want to repeat.... Mine was thick rubber with batting on the back
My layers in cab are
1 POR15
2 Dynamat
3 caulked/sealed grommets/holes with urethane caulk
3 sprayed rubberized sound deadener on seams/edges and also on the firewall
4 Dense closed cell foam (find a good sale on athletic or yoga mat, just get a dense/heavy one
5 Carpet
Before installing firewall pad I sprayed on additional sound deadener (I didn't put closed cell foam all the way up the wall because otherwise it was going to get too thick and make firewall pad harder to get in/too thick to replace heater back
Overall satisfied and things look better, FILLING holes/gaps and SEALING cab up will quiet things more than just the firewall pad. Get some POR 15 and sound deadener that can take heat on the engine bay side of firewall and that will help as well and also ensure that the you have cowl/engine bay side sealed.... Lastly thing you want is to do all this work and then have cab/cowl leak on your new work. The air channel that runs from cowl down along side to air vents is notorious for leaking, so I cleaned and tried to seal that while I was dealing with all the this.. That's what I recall, just what I tried and seams to have held up (truck sits outside uncovered and we have 4 seasons of weather here)
I put in new carpet but it does not go all the way up wall, honestly I think that could be PITA. ( I added sound deadener to floor too)
There were a lot of old holes where previous things had run (like manual choke) and so with everything out was easier to see and seal up the firewall around grommets etc..... If you have any wiring to do now is the time.
It was 3 yrs ago and I think I purchased mine off Fleabay.... But I would trust comments here that if DC is better than spend the money..... I do recall this whole process was a little tedious and I I know that I don't want to repeat.... Mine was thick rubber with batting on the back
My layers in cab are
1 POR15
2 Dynamat
3 caulked/sealed grommets/holes with urethane caulk
3 sprayed rubberized sound deadener on seams/edges and also on the firewall
4 Dense closed cell foam (find a good sale on athletic or yoga mat, just get a dense/heavy one
5 Carpet
Before installing firewall pad I sprayed on additional sound deadener (I didn't put closed cell foam all the way up the wall because otherwise it was going to get too thick and make firewall pad harder to get in/too thick to replace heater back
Overall satisfied and things look better, FILLING holes/gaps and SEALING cab up will quiet things more than just the firewall pad. Get some POR 15 and sound deadener that can take heat on the engine bay side of firewall and that will help as well and also ensure that the you have cowl/engine bay side sealed.... Lastly thing you want is to do all this work and then have cab/cowl leak on your new work. The air channel that runs from cowl down along side to air vents is notorious for leaking, so I cleaned and tried to seal that while I was dealing with all the this.. That's what I recall, just what I tried and seams to have held up (truck sits outside uncovered and we have 4 seasons of weather here)
1968 F250 FE 390